Then, you need to ensure that it is loaded with the correct staples, including the right size and type for the materials you are working with. First and foremost, you need a stapler, which should be appropriately sized for the task at hand. To use a staple gun efficiently, you need the right tools for the job, as well as an understanding of how to use them properly. When preparing to use a staple gun, the first step is to gather your materials. Overall, loading a Stanley staple gun may take a little bit of practice, but with the right materials and a little bit of patience, you can get the hang of it in no time! Step 1: Prepare Your Staple Gun Before you get started, make sure that you have the right staple size and that your gun is unloaded and disconnected from any power source.įrom there, all you need to do is open the magazine, insert your staples, and close everything back up – just be sure to follow your specific gun’s instructions closely to avoid any misfires or jams. Fortunately, the process is fairly straightforward, and all you need are your staples, a compatible Stanley staple gun, and perhaps a pair of pliers to help you get everything settled into place. If you’re looking to use a Stanley staple gun, you’ll first need to gather your materials so you can load it up properly. So grab your staple gun and let’s get started! Gather Your Materials In this guide, we will walk you through the simple process of loading your Stanley staple gun, so you can get back to tackling your project in no time.
A staple gun offers a quick and easy way to secure materials together, and the Stanley staple gun is a reliable and popular choice. Plus you run the risk of marring the surface of the painting if you laid it face down to staple on the back of the bar.Ready to tackle that DIY home project but not sure how to load your Stanley staple gun? Look no further! Whether you’re an expert or a novice, learning how to load your staple gun is a crucial step in completing any project. I can see where it might work if you did all your stapling on the back side of the stretcher bars but most conventional stretching is stapled on the outside edge and would make hooking the bar on a table edge very difficult to do. That would inhibit the use of the stretching pliers, I am afraid. If you can picture how a canvas is physically stretched and where the stretching pliers is placed and how the whole tamale is held for you to staple each spot, you don't have the luxury of placing the edge of the stretcher bar on the edge of a table top. "Have you tried placing the edge of the stretcher bar on a solid backing such as a sturdy table or bench and holding the gun real firmly onto the surface you are stapling" But, even with that convenience, as your compressor loses pressure with use down to that point where it kicks on again to build up to the pressure that is set on your regulator, it will drive the staples with less and less power until such time as it builds back up to whatever pressure you set for it at the air regulator.īuying an air compressor and a pneumatic stapler won't solve this problem completely so you need to have a hammer close by to tap in those stubborn staples as you stretch. This is also a lesser problem with pneumatic staplers although you have the option of increasing or decreasing the "power" of your air stapler according to the type of wood stretcher you are stapling onto by setting your air regulator to a higher or lower operating air pressure. So, if the wood has "hard spots" in it also, it is natural for the staple to meet with more resistence than in the soft wood spots and it won't go in completely. If you are driving a staple into a "soft spot", it will probably seat itself properly because the spring setting of the stapler which causes the "power" of the stapler to drive in the staple is consistent and set by the factory to hammer, at the same strength, every staple you attempt to drive into any wood. The problem isn't with the stapler most times, it is with the composition of the wood stretcher bar and that you have no control over.Īt the risk of Baer challenging my knowledge base, I will simply say that there are "hard spots" and "soft spots" in most every species of wood. Regarding your stapler problem, there really isn't much you can do to make every staple sink into the wood stretcher just at the proper level. First of all, a warm welcome to the Grumble to ya!! You will find a wealth of information here if you learn how to search the archives and find old threads dealing with whatever problem you are facing.